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Double Cracks 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Aug 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Looking down on the whole climb from high above.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route can be done as two pitches, but there is no reason not to link them. There is an anchor at mid height, but it is without rings. From the upper anchor, a 70m just reaches the ground (a 60m would not).

Follow a perfect hand crack up right to intercept the "double cracks" which actually become 3 cracks. The steepest part of the lower half was the crux for me. Although a little strenuous, especially where the crack is wider than hands, there are enough options for stemming to keep it casual.

The upper half of the pitch is a bolted squeeze chimney. Work your way up past the first 4 bolts. Crystals and features make it very enjoyable. If you want to suffer, battle straight up through the final bulge (more like 9+). If you want to make things easy, spin around on good footholds and traverse onto the right wall at a horizontal crack. If you are tall enough, you can clip that last oddly located bolt. After a few moves of face climbing, you can step back left and up to the anchor.


This route is on the right half of the wall. Look for a giant, left-facing overhang up high, and it's right under there.... If you head straight up from the old campground, it will be a little to the right. You can't miss these obvious inviting cracks. You can see the bolts on the upper chimney part from the ground as well....


The bottom half is mostly #3 Camalots. There is other stuff available, but I had 3-#3s, so I just bumped em up.... The crack slims to #2s before the first anchor. There is a bolted anchor on the ledge above the lower cracks. 5 bolts lead to the upper anchor.

Photos of Double Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the upper anchors.
At the upper anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: In the upper chimney on the upper half.
In the upper chimney on the upper half.
Rock Climbing Photo: Using both cracks.
Using both cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first part of the climb.
The first part of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower half of the climb.
The lower half of the climb.

Comments on Double Cracks Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a fun climb that has only about a 10-15 minute approach. The first anchor would only be necessary if you have less than a 70m rope, but there is no hardware for a rap or lower on the bolt hangers.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There are now carabiners on the bolt hangers if you wish to rap the first pitch.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Sep 15, 2014

A #3 1/2 and #4 Camalot are nice to have on the first pitch. A green Alien and green Camalot can be placed on the second pitch to avoid turning around to clip the hard to reach last bolt.

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