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Double Cracks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe
Page Views: 4,451
Submitted By: Dave Clawson on Jul 1, 2006

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perfect kneebar rest


Double Cracks is located on the north end of the formation. It starts off with two parallel, strenuous, steep and slippery finger cracks. After this the angle eases and some stemming and jamming with a hand hold thrown in here and there gets one to the top.


Standard rack works, TCUs for the start. There are fixed anchors at the top.

Photos of Double Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: KT Miller crushing Double Cracks, May 2010
KT Miller crushing Double Cracks, May 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of a great route and challenging l...
Nearing the top of a great route and challenging l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Double Cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Double Cracks

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By Rob T
Jul 12, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There are anchors at the top to get down, but they are inconveniently located for top-roping. The anchor is 2 metolius rap hangers about 20' up and climbers right from the end of the technical difficulties. Probably best to bring the second up, then rap.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Jul 29, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm all for a bit of sandbagging, but after doing this route multiple times, both on TR and lead, I feel that the moves are definitely harder than .10a! Does anyone really think this is "just as easy" as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice?
AWESOME route!
Also, there's an old bolt immediately right of the top of the crack. It makes a great directional.
By Rob T
Jul 31, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

i guess i could see it being harder is if you don't fit into the initial chimney. after leaving the deck, i can get a no hands rest anywhere up to the hand crack just by wedging my torso in there.
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007

tough for bigger people on lead placing gear. the wedge is solid, but when you try to squeeze a cam in its not so secure.
By bbrock
From: Al
Jun 5, 2007

Back in the day my buddy use to down climb this route to get off the top. Insane!!! This route also makes an excellent solo as the crux is right off the ground.
By wilcox510
Aug 20, 2007

This is a great route, but to me it seems much more difficult than either Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice (two of the area classic 10a cracks). The crux is short, but both times I've lead this is kind of worked me.
By Nate Adams
Aug 20, 2007

Wow! This popped up as a featured route and jolted me back 20 years. This was my second (ever) lead, after a bolted 5.7 at Dragons Back in Montana. I'm happy to say I did it clean, but it took an eternity to clip into the rings on slings and rap. I had a serious case of newbie nerves at the anchors, but man, was I psyched!!!!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 26, 2012

Pretty hard for 5.10a! I actually found a harder 5.10a (White Lightning) but this is easily 5.10b or 5.10c climbing at the bottom. Insecure finger jams lead to a chimney top to the ubiquitous patina jug finish at The City. But maybe the grade should stay for a little traditional butt whipping for those whose egos were easily fluffed on Bloody Fingers or the like ;).

Awesome climbing on an aesthetically appealing pitch.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
May 31, 2015

Got the redpoint on this route as a "victory lap" after onsighting Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b) , but I'm not sure which is easier.

I'm sure there must be a 5.10a way to do it, I just haven't figured it out yet.

Gently overhanging, and well worth the effort!
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
4 days ago
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route reminds me of Mexican Crack in Little Cottonwood. Hard start but well protected, followed by some very fun crack climbing.

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