REI Community
The Appendage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The S,TR 
Butterface S 
Crisco Crack T 
Double Crack T 
Edge, The T 
Full Appendage S,TR 
Lead S 
Ledge, The S,TR 
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 

Double Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Alex Temus on Jun 25, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo


Nice jaunt up the double crack system starting just right of "The Bulge" and veering right, halfway up, toward the chains for "Full Appendage". The left crack starts at hands and widens to off-width before the roof while the right side stays more consistent at small fingers. The two cracks are less than 2 feet apart so can easily use both.

A fun 5.8 variation is at the top if you decide to say left at the roof and jam/lieback the fist crack. Once over the roof, just traverse right about 8 feet to meet up with the original route at the nearest chains above "Full Appendage".

The route can be done as a chimney, as a proper jam-fest, as more of a face climb, or a combo of all three. Take your pick!


Hop in the chimney directly right of "The Bulge"


Anything from brass offsets to a #5 Camalot, seriously just pick an assortment of about 4 or 5 pieces, and it'll probably work. (Save a #3 for the end if you do the 5.8 roof variation)

A couple extendable draws are nice, especially if placing pro in both cracks, or if placing anything in the 5.8 roof finish and traversing.

Comments on Double Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jun 25, 2017

Pretty much anyone who has climbed in Rock Canyon for any length of time has climbed this.
By Brock Jones
From: Provo, UT
Aug 3, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I've always wondered why there was no route info for this one on MP, since it's pretty easy to that there are anchors up top, thanks for adding it! You can climb this in a variety of ways, but if you go the easiest route and grab the huge holds it's 5.easy.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About