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Double Chin TR 

Double Chin 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 38'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: no info available, open for 1st
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Joe L 82 on Aug 12, 2014

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climbing partner on Double chin, just getting past...

Description 

38 foot route on mix layer crag. Start on cracked sandstone work your way up the sandstone to the first decent move (which might have to be made dynamic for shorter climbers)your left hand to a small lip in the rock, from there work to solid holds and foot to get past the layer of sandstone to softer more brittle layer. Take a quick breather on the lip with and under cling if you need it before jumping on the more chossy rock, decent holds make short work of this section but don't tire before you reach the crux near the top. a slight over hang that is followed by an inlet with minimal holds makes for a sticky situation. Grope and slap over the lip into the inlet onto the next layer of harder stone for anything that feels like it will go. Push out the move and find your way into cavernous seem below the roof over hang.

For now the climb can be finished here, toping out last over hang is currently difficult because lack of holds, (top is covered in moss/veg ect...) Next time I visit I make look at cleaning off the top of the rock to see if there are any features that would make a top out more feasible and take the route to a new level.

Location 

Main wall of Flood rocks and also on the highest section of the wall. Walk around left once onto peninsula to find yourself to bottom of main wall. Route just left of slightly lower section of the wall also easy to find from up top because of that feature. To get to top walk back out and go right follow trail up and around some rocks to top of main wall.

Protection 

No bolts yet.
Top rope, 2 nice trees at top of route to set up double anchor. (bring protection for your rope as it will hang off the upper over hang and get chewed up by the stone and or get damp from moss)


Photos of Double Chin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shot of 1 of the 2 routes we played on "Doubl...
Shot of 1 of the 2 routes we played on "Doubl...

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