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Double Arete 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

Type:  Boulder, 16'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 5,125
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Nov 10, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Squeeze.


Start out low on the right side of the arete, find the sweet spots, paste the feet and begin. Strenuous moves the whole way, continually just squeezing everything together. Eases up slightly toward the top, with a mild topout.


Just down and right from Squirming Coil, there's a path that cuts down as you head up the trail.


A couple of pads, plus a good spotter would be nice on this one. If you blow it near the top, you might spin off onto the boulder to the left and have a fun slide down.

Photos of Double Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting to move up the squeeze problem in his box...
Starting to move up the squeeze problem in his box...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting my redpoint in the dark.
Getting my redpoint in the dark.
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Arete.
BETA PHOTO: Double Arete.

Comments on Double Arete Add Comment
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By GeoffElson Elson
Apr 2, 2009
rating: V4 6B

I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft?
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 17, 2009
rating: V5 6C

You climb the boulder using compression moves on both aretes... The slab to the left is obviously off for feet.
By Said Parirokh
From: Redlands, Ca
Jun 1, 2009
rating: V4-5 6B+

I also felt it was very soft for a V6. Felt much closer to the V4+ to V5- range. My climbing partner felt it was much harder as his wingspan barely reaches both aretes. It could be a height dependent problem, I am 5'8" with a +3 ape index.
By Andrew Vojslavek
Jun 28, 2009
rating: V5 6C

Said and G, I could see how it's probably a V5, the V4 confuses me. Perhaps since I originally did it in July with more than a few drinks in me it seemed harder, nevertheless, a good climb.


Said ring me, let's climb!
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
May 25, 2010
rating: V4 6B

This problem can't be more than a V4. I am 5"8, and I can barely reach across, (which should give me a disadvantage)and I was able to put the lower section (crux) together in a few tries. This is not even close to normal for me on a V5.

That being said, it is a completely awesome burl-fest of a problem! Thanks for posting it.
By Squish
From: Lakewood
Jun 20, 2010

How low are you starting this problem? I'm assuming it is a sds. I am starting it with a low right hand on the arete and a left hand on a low low undercling/sidepull....
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Dec 3, 2010

The sit start begins with both hands on the right side arete, making a few moves up and then left into the low undercling.

As for the grade, I posted this problem before I ever sent it, and didn't have a good idea of what the difficulty was. I based my opinion at the time on being able to do Squirming Coil but not this problem. Having come back to it now I think it's around V5 or so, and have changed the post accordingly. I wish it felt like V4!
By Matthew Thaler
Mar 12, 2012
rating: V4 6B

I could do this way before I could do Squirming Coil or any other V5 problems up here. V4 for me and a great problem.
By Tyson Ferryman
From: Bailey, CO
Aug 16, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Seems as if the difficulty questions on this can be answered at the start of the problem. If you begin with the left on the low undercling/ sidepull, then it takes it down a notch, I believe. It's harder to begin with both hands on the arête, and move to the undercling, like Jay has pointed out.... Awesome! either way....

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