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DOT Glacier T 

DOT Glacier 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a AI2

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 3550'
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a AI2 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: 
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 982
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Aug 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Crossing the bergshrund in late summer.

Description 

Park at mile marker 27 and make sure you do not park on the DOT maintenance road.

Ascend up the slope right off the road and aim for the large electrical line tower. In the summer there is a faint trail that ascends up the lateral moraine all the way up to the toe of the DOT Glacier that is marked with cairns, this is also a good route in the winter months. During the snowy months one can also traverse easily into the fall line drainage that runs off the DOT Glacier, in the spring this may be a tarhead HWY (snowmachines).

The toe of the DOT Glacier starts at about 4200ft, the most resent USGS map from 1984 shows the glacier at about 3600ft. The DOT glacier does have a few crevasse fields and a large bergshrund at about 4900ft to gain the main headwall that leads to the 3rd class ridge to the summit.
Be prepared for weather to move in fast to this area, this basin is one of the first areas to be socked in on TP with clouds.

Protection 

Glacier kit, crampons and ice axe are recommended.


Photos of DOT Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tibetan prayer flags along the morain trail.
Tibetan prayer flags along the morain trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: The wizard of the Chugach, Matt Kinney, laying dow...
The wizard of the Chugach, Matt Kinney, laying dow...

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