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Dos Chi Chis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, George Armstrong, Rick Corbin, Greg Epperson, Kelby Burnham, Tucker Tech
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 9,249
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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Maggie at the crux of Dos Chichis, April 2004


P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation.

Descend the route in 3 rappels with a single 60 meter rope - one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below the large ledge and one more to the base.

The well-protected climbing in a remote location makes this a highly recommended moderate route. While the climbing is good, the view from the top is unparalled and offers far-reaching views of the entire Wonderland, Saddle Rocks and the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base. Three, maybe four, stars out of five.


This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth.


P1) 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap; P2) 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos of Dos Chi Chis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sipu on Dos Chi Chi's.
Sipu on Dos Chi Chi's.
Rock Climbing Photo: from the top. you have to try to get up there
from the top. you have to try to get up there
Rock Climbing Photo: Dos Chi Chis top belaying from 1st anchor point
BETA PHOTO: Dos Chi Chis top belaying from 1st anchor point
Rock Climbing Photo: Stefan at the crux of Pitch 1  Dos Chi Chis (5.10a...
Stefan at the crux of Pitch 1 Dos Chi Chis (5.10a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Locker backing off Dos Chichis. He's never looked ...
Locker backing off Dos Chichis. He's never looked ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stefan Harms starting up Pitch 1
Stefan Harms starting up Pitch 1

Comments on Dos Chi Chis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 15, 2016
By Randy
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun 2 pitch outing that is sure to be one of the most popular routes of its rating in the Park once the new guide comes out. Lots of moderate and long sport routes here.

The best part about this and the other routes that end on the top of the formation is the view. One of the best views from any formation in the entire Park.

A 3-4 star out of 5 route.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Lead this again today and it felt like 5.9 at best. It is a really fun route. Two 60m ropes for one rap..........
By Woody Stark
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A lot of fun and well protected.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 21, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a fun route - long first pitch with one tricky move, crux on the second pitch, which is one 5.10a move on a thin slab. IMHO there 2 too many bolts on this route - there's pro in the horizontal on the first pitch, and there's pro at the top of the second pitch. Hard to imagine ths route went ignored for so long.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 6, 2007

Chris, thanks for the single rope rap info for this route (and others)
By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008

As has been said, a fun climb with incredible views. Personally I think the location is better than the actual climbing.

With future popularity I would look for this route to become more difficult as those prescious little knobbies one steps up at the crux of P1 wear away. The rock on these faces is generally quite friable.
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

put your right foot on the left chi chi...and your good
By attila
Feb 13, 2010

Only did the first pitch to the rap anchor. Fun climb, easier than the climb to the left, Yasmine Bleeth. This wall in general doesn't have stellar rock quality - belayers, wear your helmet! The stances to clip are all easy and secure (for a 6-foot climber, anyway).
By nealg
Mar 28, 2010

perfect climbs on busy w/e days; warm and sunny all day.

great JT face climb; most tightly bolted route I've done in the park.

make sure to tick Yasmine's and the two 5.9 / 10a's on Buttress #1 whil you out in 'Siberia' - ALL GREAT!
By Russ Walling
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route and its cousin to the left are both top shelf if you are into sport face. DCC was a bit harder than YB and has less of those nice patina edges to latch onto. It seems as though quite a few knobs or edges have become rounded or broke off from use, but plenty remain to make this a fun and only slightly tenuous outing.
By Louis Machado
From: La mesa, ca
Nov 11, 2014

Buddy had a old piton pop out near the small roof section
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 6, 2015

Did the climb yesterday;..the missing piton by the small roof on pitch one has been replaced with a bolt....
By Nick Todd
Apr 6, 2016

Maybe I am new to the term single rope rappels, but do people usually climb with half ropes (60M) and make a double rope rappel?

Basically I want to know if I can just take my ONE 60m rope and rappel off that ONE rope to the next anchor(s).

Thanks in advance!!
By C Miller
From: CA
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes, just one rope is needed to rappel; changed the wording in the route description to, hopefully, make it more clear.
By Nick Todd
Apr 7, 2016

C. Miller,

Thank you for the information. Looking forward to the climb in the coming weeks.
By Ice4life
From: US
Dec 14, 2016

WHEN YOU RAP FROM TOP, rap past belay ledge anchors, even though there are rap rings on em, and go to the second set, the ones you pass on the way up, otherwise your rope WILL NOT make it down...

I have a Maxium glider 9.8 70m rope and it DID NOT make it down...
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 15, 2016

I do three single rope rappels....

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