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Dornental

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Dornental Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: scoTt Millbern on Jan 21, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Dornental main crag

Description 

This small crag, in the Mayen group, offers some nice moderate crack climbs. There are also some quality face climbs with the typical basalt style climbing, slapping up blocks and squeezing columns.

Gear
Most of the routes have some bolts, but a small rack of mostly mid sized gear is nice to have. There are a few routes that do not need gear.

You won't need much small gear, and nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot should be needed (double #3's might be nice)

Notice
The cracks here are pretty smooth and care should be used when placing cams. In some cases it is advisable to double up, even with good looking placements. There are stories of well placed cams pulling out. In addition, you should (as always) watch for loose blocks when placing gear, this is an old quarry after all.

Getting There 

To get to the Mayen crags you can park along the L82, between Mayen and Etteringen. The crag is just north from Mayen about 500 meters on the left side of the road (you will not see it from the road).

Park along the road (be careful people tend to drive pretty quickly along this road) and look for a path into the bushes. After about 10 meters you should come to a pair of boulders in the path.
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulders on the path to Mayen
Boulders on the path to Mayen

Continue along the path until you come to a field. At the field ahead and a little to the right is a stand of trees, this is Finsterlay, beyond to the right is another stand of trees where Dornental is.

50°20'12.6"N
7°13'47.0"E

Be respectful of the farmers, if the field is planted walk around to get to the crag and not across the field! The path comes in from the west side of the trees.

Once in the trees look for an old crane deck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crane Deck
Crane Deck

Head down a steep(ish) trail to the left in from of the crane.
This will take you to the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Schwarze Saeulen area.

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dornental
Rock Climbing Photo: David climbing the perfect crack

Glückspilz 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Germany : ... : Dornental
Best route of the crag! Awesome wide hands crack, with some cool hand jams to get there. Crux is climbing through the small roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Dornental Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crane Deck
BETA PHOTO: Crane Deck
Rock Climbing Photo: Dornental
BETA PHOTO: Dornental
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulders on the path to Mayen
BETA PHOTO: Boulders on the path to Mayen
Rock Climbing Photo: The crag
BETA PHOTO: The crag

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