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Doric Column
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Doric Column 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 340', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969)
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Combining pitches 3 and 4.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.

Descent:Rap route

Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.

Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.

Location 

The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.

Protection 

Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.


Photos of Doric Column Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John leading pitch 2.
John leading pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 2.
Looking down pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Chimney
Looking up at the Chimney

Comments on Doric Column Add Comment
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By Mr T
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0

This route goes free at around 5.11. No aid needed, although pins are useful for protection. Old bolts are garbage. I placed two new bolts on lead.

Tried to change the rating but MP doesn't allow me to get rid of aid status…….

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