Type: Trad, Aid, 340 ft (103 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969), FFA: Mike Pennings, Feb 1999
Page Views: 4,206 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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6 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.

Descent:Rap route

Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.

Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.

Location Suggest change

The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.

Protection Suggest change

Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.

Photos

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