Southeast Chimney Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A2+
Avg: 1.7 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 340 ft (103 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969), FFA: Mike Pennings, Feb 1999 |
Page Views: | 4,206 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.
Descent:Rap route
Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.
Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.
Descent:Rap route
Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.
Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.
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