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Eldorado Peak
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Dorado Needle East Ridge T 
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NW Ice Couloir 

Dorado Needle NW Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Lloyd Anderson, Karl Boyer, Tom Gorton, July 1940
Season: July-September
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Jennifer L on Jul 9, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: On the McAllister Glacier, head to a point slightl...


This is a scenic, short, moderate rock route (albeit with a longish approach) of a neighboring peak of Eldorado.

Good bivy sites at 7800' overlooking the Inspiration Glacier.

Note: You'll need a backcountry permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station to overnight in the Eldorado Zone ( ).


Using the Eldorado Creek approach as described for Eldorado Peak under Location ( ), attain the McAllister Glacier.

Head to a point just northwest of Dorado Needle (about 48.5508, -121.1394). You will see several gendarmes on the northwest ridge. Depending on snow conditions, steep snow and a moat may need to be crossed to get onto the ridge. 2-3 very short (< 25m) pitches on the ridge will get you to the summit.

Descend (down climb or rappel) the same way you came up, with a rappel (or down climb) of the snow pitch.


Rope (30m for short rock pitches, 60m if you want to rappel the snow pitch), 2 pickets (optional to protect the snow pitch through the moat), rack (a few cams to ~2 inches, small set of nuts, maybe tricams (pink/red/brown), 4 double length slings as there's lots of natural pro to sling)

Photos of Dorado Needle NW Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ascend the snow (possible moat) to get onto the ri...
BETA PHOTO: Ascend the snow (possible moat) to get onto the ri...

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