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Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
Page Views: 5,576
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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sorry i forgot your name dude... if you look at th...


This problem starts sitting on a good jug. You maneuver yourself under an overhang, moving right, with your feet on a slick rock slab and try to stick the severely sloping crimp-rail with both hands. Then, for the crux: you shoot a hand up, blindly grasping a very sloping, but nicely textured open hand grip. More hard moves ensue, possibly making use of a heelhook to the right, eventually moving up to a nubbin that is a couple of feet above the sloper. Moving left can reveal more sidepulls. An awkward move to gain the slab finishes the hard part. The slab above is still not trivial. THIS PROBLEM IS AWESOME!


Backside of the boulder featuring the Whip



Photos of Dopeman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike pullin down the dopeness
Mike pullin down the dopeness
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam on the upper crux section
Sam on the upper crux section
Rock Climbing Photo: Dope man!! using some crazy toe-hook
Dope man!! using some crazy toe-hook
Rock Climbing Photo: Bird nest in the right start hold
Bird nest in the right start hold
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth having his heel pop.
Seth having his heel pop.
Rock Climbing Photo: sorry this will be the last one... its just hard t...
sorry this will be the last one... its just hard t...
Rock Climbing Photo: another shot of dope man
another shot of dope man
Rock Climbing Photo: I love this mid fall shot... not the best picture ...
I love this mid fall shot... not the best picture ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me (Chris Deulen) utilizing the heel hook.
Me (Chris Deulen) utilizing the heel hook.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam looking strong on Dopeman.
Sam looking strong on Dopeman.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth getting his beta dialed!
Seth getting his beta dialed!

Comments on Dopeman Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2016
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 20, 2008

I love this problem. Probably my favorite in the park. Without giving too much beta, the heel hook comes earlier for me than in the description.

Took me about a year of on-and-off effort to send, and I still daydream about it.
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Mar 31, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Video of Dopeman
By Lanky
From: Tired
Mar 31, 2009

Thanks Bryce!

Your beta could not be more different from mine. Wild.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 4, 2009

So solid Bryce. I'm excited to get up!
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 22, 2009

i was working this the other night! it was so much fun!!! deff have a ways to go and i was using some really funky beta lol :) involving a heel hook on the right cross right hand to the bad sloper and a huge toss to the sidepull cut feet heel hook left side start and work my way up haha got most the moves but still missing a few crucial ones... cant wait to get back on it! damn you pawtuckaway right when i finish one project you draw me in for another! i wanna go back to rumney!! :)
By Lanky
From: Tired
Aug 23, 2009

Mike, I match the sloper and go right hand to the peanut-shaped edge first.
By Robert Slingsby
Aug 17, 2011

Super dissapointed; my fault I guess. Snuck in a quick p-tuck trip in while on business travel and picked this problem based on the guide book rating. It's a 6' tall one move wonder (at least in the summer... That's my bad again).

Since this is supposed one of the best in the area... I won't be coming back. Sorry guys.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 18, 2011

Well, your choice, but you would be missing a lot of great climbing. I think Dopeman is a good problem (It was better before things broke), even if not anywhere near the best. Still, calling it a 6 foot one move wonder is not too accurate IMO, and one rushed visit to Pway will not give you a good feeling for the huge park at all. If you had been able to explore around some, you would have found plenty of amazing problems and beautiful settings.

(Yeah, I know, he is probably a troll)
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Nov 10, 2011

Can't wait to get back to this problem... worked it once and am very excited about it!
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 7, 2011

Dopeman @ 4:19:

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 8, 2013
rating: V8 7B

At this point, I've done both the left and right variations. They're both fun, and I use very different beta for each of them. (There's a million different ways to climb this problem.)

Though less popular, in my opinion the right variation is the better of the two. It's cleaner and more aesthetic.
By Graham O.
Jul 7, 2016

Certainly a Pway classic.

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