REI Community
Mussel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Route TR 
Doozy TR 
God Of The Gaps TR 
Mussel Crack 
Mussels For Bones TR 
Ocean Overhang T,TR 

Doozy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp & Ben Flores
New Route: Yes
Season: Super Dry!!
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 30, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Taking the big swing off the first crux

Description 

Doozy follows an incredible line up a very overhanging wall. It starts with 12 feet of junky rock that is quickly forgotten as it quickly transitions to fantastic high quality rock for the rest of the route.

Follow overhanging bulges up to a ledge where you can sit and rest. Continue up the dihedral up to a few jugs. The holds die out on the arete, so move right to step into the crux with a wild high step and overhanging sloping rails (V6).

The lower crux is very steep so the falls are quite exciting. The harder upper crux is overhanging but easy to work on TR. This is another route we've spent many days cleaning, so please get out there, and enjoy this beast!

Location 

the center of the obvious tombstone looking wall protruding from the center of Mussel Rock.

Protection 

Top rope only. Anchor at the giant Sitka spruce and extend the anchor 40' through a trail in the brush with a second climbing rope. It helps to double over the rope to reduce the stretch.


Photos of Doozy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doozy!
Doozy!
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper crux of Doozy is one of my favorite sequ...
The upper crux of Doozy is one of my favorite sequ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben pulling through the first overhang
Ben pulling through the first overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Doozy location
Doozy location

Comments on Doozy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 3, 2015

Fantastic work/play gentlemen! This cliff has always deserved more attention.
By Benjamin F
From: Crescent City, CA
Jul 3, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thanks Matthias! Agreed! We're not finished with it yet! Still eyeing more than a few lines on it!
By Evan Wisheropp
Jul 4, 2015

Can't agree more!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About