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South Face of Arthur's Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big, Bad Book T,S 
Blackish Blobs S 
Corridor Project S 
Doom Corner T,S 
Edge Of Time S 
Excellent Adventure S 
Front Gate T 
Goldeneye S 
Great Corner, The T 
Great Variant, The T 
Intestinal Fortitude S 
Kiddy Pool S 
Owl Roof S 
Right of Passage T,S 
Rocksie Rocks S 
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 
Sunrise T 
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 
Water Fountain TR 

Doom Corner 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: B. Scott
Season: Fall, Winter and Spring
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Doom Corner, 12b.

Description 

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/art...

This great mixed climb follows the obvious dihedral between Big, Bad Book and Rocksie Rocks. Start up the right-facing corner by placing a #4 and #3.5 Camalot and moving into the continuous stemming positions. At the top of the corner, a bouldery sequence (crux) leads over a short bulge to a rest before the final bulge. Clip the final bolt after a big move to reach the upper slab and the anchor.

Location 

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection 

4 bolts plus a standard rack with a #4 and #3.5 BD, 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.


Photos of Doom Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doom Corner, 12b.
Doom Corner, 12b.

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