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Donut Hole 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,842
Submitted By: Jeremy Monahan on Sep 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Above the undercling section of Hot Fudge, there is a huge hole/cave. This is the donut hole. The route heads straight up towards this feature. 5 feet above it, the route traverses right and finishes with the last section of Hot Fudge. This is located on a vertical face just right of the "1" in the picture It is crimpy, but it is a solid route.


The setup uses the same bolts as Hot Fudge.

Photos of Donut Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Going in the hole.  Exit right after hole or TRY* ...
Going in the hole. Exit right after hole or TRY* ...
Rock Climbing Photo: After clearing roof, tiny crimpers.
After clearing roof, tiny crimpers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Big reach to hole.
Big reach to hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: Donut Hole roof.
Donut Hole roof.

Comments on Donut Hole Add Comment
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From: Englewood, CO
May 1, 2003

Sure 'bout that 10+ rating? In the book it goes as 11a. If'n it is a ten, it's a hard one at that. One of my all time favorite Castlewood routes. Decided to give it a shot one day after passing it up on every previous visit due to its intimidating looks with the roof and all. Great moves. Kind of a pain to top rope; lots of rope drag. Definitely worth the effort!
By Ken McVicker
Aug 14, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The description of this says to traverse right to Hot Fudge, but I traversed left to get to Hot Fudge as it is the undercling/corner to the left in the picture (and real life). This is a good route. It can only be protected from top roping. One or two tricky moves around the donut. It is a little crimpy, so a good warm up is in order. Warmup on Hot Fudge (5.8 to the left) or Peaches and Scream(5.6 to the right).

Just a note: we went on Wednesday in the middle of the day and encountered about 12-15 people at the Grovery Store Walls. Kind of crowded for a Wednesday. I guess they like hooky from work/school too.

This could have been rated lower because there are only 2-3 5.11 moves. But those moves are 5.11.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Aug 28, 2003

I would tend to agree with you two about the .11a rating. At the time, I had not finished this route and could only speculate about the rest. I was also going off of friend's wisdom. Definitely a fun route, though. The reach coming off of the overhang is pretty stout. I am vertically challenged (we don't say short) and I had a tough time pulling this move. From here, it only gets tougher.
By Cassidy Hill
Sep 10, 2003

Ken, I agree with you about the stiff 5.10 rating, but I don't think that we did the same line. Donut Hole goes out the roof formed by the Hot Fudge undercling traverse towards the enormous hole in the middle of the face there, not the small one to the right of Hot Fudge. After gaining the enormous hueco, one definitely traverses right back to the finish of Hot Fudge (or creates a new, more difficult direct finish?).
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 26, 2004

Agreed, tougher direct finish. Haven't linked it all yet, but worked the moves. Crimpy, but definitely do-able. Try it out.
By kevin jenkins
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have to agree with ROC that this is a most difficult 10, most likely an 11a. It does get crimpy, and it is easy - too easy - to get pumped early. Linking up as many of the first 10-15 moves as you can, being efficient with your energy, you can do this with out an extended rest (if you can milk a rest at the knee-bar just below the upper crux, you'll be in good shape). Happy climbing!

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