|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Evan Mathews 2013|
|Submitted By:||Evan Mathews on Aug 11, 2014|
|Comments on Don't Trad on Me||Add Comment|
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By Andrew M Whitmore
Jun 29, 2015
|I've never bolted a a splitter crack, but I've climbed a lot of them. The bolting on this is weird from a crack climbing perspective. Continuously awkward clips.|
Jul 5, 2016
|Pretty stiff for 5.10. Awkward clips to say the least. Belay area is steep, loose and dirty. Despite these criticisms we found the actual climbing pumpy, interesting and fun.|
By Ted Lange
Aug 1, 2016
You will enjoy this climb a LOT more if you take the following advice:
> Get fully geared up (except for shoes) over by the cave, then walk into the slot to the base of the route. As noted by Tate, the slot where the climb is located is steepish and dirty with lots of loose rock
> Only two people (belayer & climber) should go into the slot at a time because of all the loose rock. Though a photographer who wants to scramble up high in the slot will be rewarded with some great photo angles.
> The pumpiest parts of this climb are sharp, overhanging hand crack with not great feet - lots of weight on your jams! DO NOT climb this without tape (like I did)!! Without tape, the pain of some of the sharp jams took away a lot of the fun. Plus, the strenuous and painful jamming gave me tunnel vision which resulted in almost climbing past several of the bolts - which are behind you as you climb. This was scary because the falls could have been big with some injury potential. Though clipping the bolts when they were at my knees made the clips a big less awkward.
Overall, it's certainly a good climb and provides a shady alternative with a very different style of climbing vs. the rest of the routes at Wolverine - except for the first 15 feet of in-your-face Wolverine techiness which gets the pump going before you even touch the burly crack. Definitely pretty stiff for 5.10! This is not a warmup for your hard 11 project.