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Don't Trad on Me 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Evan Mathews 2013
Page Views: 353
Submitted By: A. Ginger on Aug 11, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The first route on the overhanging wave on the backside of the Upper Replica. Start up the small gully bellow the large obvious overhanging flake. Climb through a techy pocket sequence to gain the large flake then lieback, undercling, and sidepull your way to the top. Slightly intimidating. Women have also been sighted climbing this route topless. 8 bolts (Note: This was bolted as a lieback so if you climb it as a straight on splitter I imagine that the clipping might feel a bit awkward)

Location 

The Wave Wall
Located on the back side of the Upper Replica

Protection 

Quickdraws
Chain anchor


Comments on Don't Trad on Me Add Comment
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By Andrew M Whitmore
Jun 29, 2015

I've never bolted a a splitter crack, but I've climbed a lot of them. The bolting on this is weird from a crack climbing perspective. Continuously awkward clips.
By tatedunkel
From: montana
Jul 5, 2016

Pretty stiff for 5.10. Awkward clips to say the least. Belay area is steep, loose and dirty. Despite these criticisms we found the actual climbing pumpy, interesting and fun.
By Ted Lange
Aug 1, 2016

You will enjoy this climb a LOT more if you take the following advice:

> Get fully geared up (except for shoes) over by the cave, then walk into the slot to the base of the route. As noted by Tate, the slot where the climb is located is steepish and dirty with lots of loose rock

> Only two people (belayer & climber) should go into the slot at a time because of all the loose rock. Though a photographer who wants to scramble up high in the slot will be rewarded with some great photo angles.

> The pumpiest parts of this climb are sharp, overhanging hand crack with not great feet - lots of weight on your jams! DO NOT climb this without tape (like I did)!! Without tape, the pain of some of the sharp jams took away a lot of the fun. Plus, the strenuous and painful jamming gave me tunnel vision which resulted in almost climbing past several of the bolts - which are behind you as you climb. This was scary because the falls could have been big with some injury potential. Though clipping the bolts when they were at my knees made the clips a big less awkward.

Overall, it's certainly a good climb and provides a shady alternative with a very different style of climbing vs. the rest of the routes at Wolverine - except for the first 15 feet of in-your-face Wolverine techiness which gets the pump going before you even touch the burly crack. Definitely pretty stiff for 5.10! This is not a warmup for your hard 11 project.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 16, 2017

I'd like to echo all the previous comments. while the crack climbing difficulty is on par with things like Outlander at Lumpy Ridge (.10d), I am completely perplexed as to WHY the bolts are 3-4' right of the crack? Even 'if' you were doing the layback style that is suggested, (and not jamming it as is clearly the obvious choice) reaching that far away is rather ridiculous. what the heck was the author thinking? inquiring minds want to know. sure I got pummeled and ran out of gas and balls at bolt#6, but I'll return with a single rack from .75 to 3.5 and hand-jammies and send it. after all I am a crack-climber by resume. btw: Im also wondering why bolt#7 is 10' out when all the other bolts are at about 3'-5' spacing?
By A. Ginger
Aug 17, 2017

Greg,
Just wanted to give you some more info on the route. It was one of the first routes I had ever bolted and a style that at the time I did not quite understand, so I'm not surprised that I made some mistakes. Feel free to move bolts as you see fit (anyone for that matter) or climb it with gear despite the name haha
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 1, 2017

understood A. Ginger. and a conclusion I came to. thanks for your honesty & candor.
I lead it on gear today.......... um well, hung on a few at that........
however; my beta is two-fold:
1. rack = 2 x .75, 2x #1, and 1 x #4/5 BD will get the job done. plus QD bolts as needed. stick clipping bolt #2 seems key.
2. tape seems insufficient, hand-jammies are the bomb.

using the smaller gear allows for dumping your hands into the few good pods as bomber placements. .10D still seems fair to me.

thanks for the kind offer. relocating the bolts would add a Star to this line.

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