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Don't Think Twice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Herb Laegar, Eve Laegar, Patrick Paul, Rich Smith, November 1982
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Aug 9, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: 'Don't Think Twice". Photo by Blitzo.


This turned out to be a really good route. Interesting moves, bomber pro, and good rock. It is like a cross between Super Roof and Moosedog Tower.

Climb the approach crack and lob in some med cams or a giant stopper or two. Get up under the roof and sink the bomber pro (2.5" cam) and suss out the roof moves. Get established in the roof and plant a 4" cam into the roof. Move right onto the face and after a couple of easy moves you are at a belay spot up and left of the roof crack.

Belay takes stuff in the 2" to 3" range and don't let your rope get stuck in the roof crack.

Descend over the top and down to climbers left via an easy scramble. Follow the worn rock.


Standard gear to 4".

Photos of Don't Think Twice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Donnelly under the roof of Don't Think Twice
Tom Donnelly under the roof of Don't Think Twice

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By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

Did this on TR and it is dirty. Interesting move around the overhang but dirty/chossy and wouldnt be a confident lead. The top is face and you can run it out on probably 5.9 face or go right around the side and get a hand crack.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 8, 2007

I think this is an overlooked climb. Still a bit of roughness at the start, but would clean up nicely with more ascents. Pulling across the roof is good fun, goes easier than it looks.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 23, 2010

Clean up some? The route is nearly 30 years old! Maybe on the 1/2 century mark it will lose the choss factor? Not that I've done it but that last comment was too hysterical to not reply to.
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Nov 15, 2010

I just did it and it wasn't chossy at all. Good pro - fun route.
By Russ Walling
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No idea what Mark L is talking about up there.
It is not dirty or chossy, and there is no face at the top. Anyway...I'd go 2.5 stars on this one.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 6, 2012

Clean fun is what this route is. Quite possibly the best route on the wall. When watching Russ plug his big meats into that the crack above it occurred to me, it may be too wide for me; he sunk #4 Camalot in the thing after all. To my pleasant surprise there was no need for fancy footwork or struggle at the top, turns out the crack chokes down making a perfect cupped hand placement even for the ladies.

I love hidden Josh gems..............
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Dec 19, 2015

very fun roof. able to anchor with one BD 0.75 and one 1, plus the 4 that could be walked the whole way up the roof and backcleaned to add to the anchor, if that helps to pare down the rack
By bmorris
Feb 3, 2017

Hidden gem for sure! Had a great time on this route. Definitely a non-trivial walk off the way i went (climbers left). I almost fractured my hip tumbling down the backside...

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