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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Don't Shoot 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Dave Ingalls and Vin Hoeman, 1965
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: john2.71 on May 9, 2015

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Description 

This climb would be a classic if the finish on P2 were clean. It is worthwhile to ascend P1 then either rap, or finish on Willie's Weep. P2 is not recommended unless you have an adventurous heart.

P1 - Climb the gritty, pebbly face, trending right on easy PG terrain, toward a wide vertical crack system. Stay on the face left of the crack, aiming for the right of a small pine tree. After passing the tree, begin traversing left, sometimes diagonally, towards the chunky corner and Willie's Weep P2 belay tree. Heave-ho the jugs up the overhang to the belay ledge. (5.3, 150 ft.)

P2 - (5.4) Step right, moving away from the flakes on Willie's, toward a left facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, passing a piton. The route is clean until this point. Straight up the overhang on lichen-covered jugs to a large ledge. Scale the 10 ft lichen wall to the top.

Location 

Start a few feet right of Willie's Weep.

Descend by walking to the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst rappel, or rappel from Willie's Weep P2 belay tree.

Protection 

The gear is PG. Since P1 is 150 ft, bring long slings and enough pro.


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