REI Community
search
Mine Hole Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bolt To Crack To Bolt T,S 
Bolt To Crack To Bolts T,S 
Bulge T 
Bull Fight S 
Couch Potato T,S 
Cow Patty Crack T 
Don't Pull on the Udder T,S 
Firing Squad T 
Get Your Dieck Off My Barnyard Animals T,S 
Hot Donut, The T 
It's All Been Dung T 
Just Another Cow's Climb T,S 
Just Moo It T,S 
Lieback T,S 
Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer S 
Ruff Roof S,TR 
Sabrina's Choice T,TR 
Salisbury Steak Crack T 
Slab T,S 
Sofa Kingdom S 
Theen Crack T 
Thin Slab T,S 
Unknown T 
Unknown Prow T 
What's Mine Is Yours S 

Don't Pull on the Udder 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 2001
Page Views: 1,643
Submitted By: Ray Snead on May 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Below the third bolt.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route starts right of Bull Fight by a large pine tree. It is a short, right-facing corner to a thrutchy, crack encounter. It is barely worth doing, but it is not a bomb.

    Protection 

    This is a sport route with 3 bolts and a chain anchor, but small wired nuts are nice between bolts #1 and #2.


    Photos of Don't Pull on the Udder Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the first bolt.
    Clipping the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Weirdness.
    Weirdness.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from just left of the route's start on 5/19/...
    BETA PHOTO: Taken from just left of the route's start on 5/19/...

    Comments on Don't Pull on the Udder Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By PATRICK THOMPSON
    Jun 1, 2002

    This route was put up ground up by Pat and Azenda Thompson. I put the bolts in later to make a safe mixed beginner route. The name of the route is Don't Pull on the Udder. This is in relation to the big chockstone at the top of the route. I think it is solid but beware. We actually called this crag Bovine World. I used 0 TCUs and a .5 Camalot on the route. We thought the route was about 5.7.

    The short hand crack 10 feet to the right also has anchors on it. It definitely does not get stars, but it was put up ground up by Gene Kissler [I am not sure of spelling] and Pat Thompson. It goes at about 5.8 through the crack and backs off to maybe 5.4 above to the anchors. We used a number 1 or 2 Camalot for the crack and TCUs and stoppers above.

    Also up the hill and 20 feet to the right is another short crack with chain anchors. It starts in a right-facing dihedral and pulls the obvious roof and then ascends the short face on horizontals. You will need medium cams and TCUs for this route. I really enjoy this route, so I give it 1 star because it is so short. This route was put up ground up also, by Pat and Azenda Thompson and also Chris and Shannon Coney. We called this route Cow Patty Crack. It goes at about 5.9.
    By PATRICK THOMPSON
    Jun 1, 2002

    I forgot to put route name for short 5.8 crack right of Udder climb . We called it Salisbury Steak Crack because Gene had to eat salisbury steak in Estes Park because he could not find any vegetarian food there. I guess you had to be there.
    By Tonya Clement
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 28, 2003

    Thanks Pat and Azenda! This is so short and yet so sweet. It is a one hit wonder of a move but fun all the same. I definitely placed a cam in the crack just before the 3rd bolt...just to give me confidence to make the step up. This one is a 5.8 in my book. If you have never led a 5.9...this would be a good first attempt as you will succeed!
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 17, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Not as bad as it looks from the ground -- it's actually a decent (though very short) pitch. From the top, it's possible to traverse climber's left to the next set of anchors, and set up a toprope anchor for the two neighboring climbs.
    By HTP
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 15, 2008

    In 2008, the chockstone is still there--and I still wouldn't crank on it! This is a short and sweet 5.8 that's easy to protect with an extra stopper and cam.
    By Caitlin DeVries
    From: Gunnison, CO
    Sep 14, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    At first sight, I had no idea this was a mixed route; just thought it was a run out lead. Lead it with a little hesitation at the crux, but other than that, it was not a bad climb.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About