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Dont let me down 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A3 [details]
FA: Ron Anderson, Chuck Jobst 1980
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Ron Anderson on Jul 19, 2011

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Looking up at the "expando" crack.

Description 

just right of an old unfinished bolt ladder on the south face of the apron is the overhanging dihederal and crack. 5.6 up to the crack, which is nailed via a3 expando nailing to a 5.7 mantle off of it to the left near the top which is awkward! Beware of the EXPANDO nature of the HUGE block!

Location 

south face of the Apron

Protection 

chocks cams and pins to 3"


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By Shredmands
Sep 8, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1

This climb definitely needs some more free attempts. I've heard it was freed some time ago but can't find any info on it. I clean aided it recently to see if the expando nature of it would be evident but I didn't find it that way, or maybe it was just that each cam below had just enough range to stay in. Have tried to link moves on tr as well, but this thing is PDH, and I'm PDW.
I opted for a slightly more direct, but dirty, and fun A2 seam below the overhang and found the steeps to cruise at C1.

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