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Don't Judge a Book by its Cover 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bret & Stuart Ruckman 1986
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Jun 27, 2012

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Description 

A north facing corner that leads to a roof that is by-passed to the right. Protection on the route is difficult and not secure.

Location 

Northern side of the buttress

Protection 

Small cams and small brass nuts most of which are in suspect locations. A wise climber would use double ropes so to take advantage all the pro possible with out adding rope drag. The pin (knife blade) can not be trusted as it is in hollow rock.


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By John Steiger
Aug 13, 2016

This route is best appreciated through the lens of local history. For the first ascent, Bret led this on-sight, ground-up, and with a rudimentary rack (no microcams in 86). In those days Bret and other locals were probing their mental as well as physical limits, launching up untouched faces with little apparent protection and producing creations such as this, Pipeline Sequence, and Life Sentence, all led by Bret. After cajoling the story out of him, Bret humbly explained, "it was the trend of the sport back then. Merrill [Bitter] was doing ‘Eye In the Sky’ and ‘Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis’ with his rack of RPs and endless endurance, so we all tried to copy him, but at the much lower 5.9/5.10 level." Long live BCC's trad climbing tradition.