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Bidhiru Kallu
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Don't Fall! T 

Don't Fall! 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Lone Ranger on Jan 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Pink line: ~20m rappel. Also marks a nice corner c...

Description 

The route has two cruxes. After a short bushwhacking to get to the start, the first crux is to get on the ledge below the crack. This is a boulder move about 5-6 feet high; delicate, about 6c move. Don't use the loose rock on your left to get up; the rock will fall any moment. And without that it does feel 6b+/6c.

The main, nicer crux is at the start of the crack, the first move from the ledge. Powerful layback-stemming combinations for the first 8 odd feet, after which the route eases drastically, follow the crack for another 20 feet to a low angled belay station.

Exit: Walk across to a sturdy tree about 30 feet to the right and rap off down the clean corner/chimney, and walk back to the start of the route.

Grade: Samiran pulled on a sling to get past the crux on lead and rated the climb around 6c. I followed on a tight belay. We felt this single move is a touch harder than any section of Back for More on Elba Rock, but since it is only a short crux and protection is easy to place, the overall route is no more than an alphabet grade harder (6c?) than Back for More. Others who climb it or know better, pl propose revisions.

Location 

The obvious crack; see pics

Protection 

You can place a large cam as soon as you haul yourself up on to the ledge, before doing the crux move.


Photos of Don't Fall! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't use the flake marked by red X; loose; ne...
BETA PHOTO: Don't use the flake marked by red X; loose; ne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Close view
BETA PHOTO: Close view
Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping
BETA PHOTO: Top roping
Rock Climbing Photo: Unmarked pic
BETA PHOTO: Unmarked pic
Rock Climbing Photo: Samiran on lead, aided at the crux
BETA PHOTO: Samiran on lead, aided at the crux

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