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Donner Pass Road

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Baboon Crag 
Bastille Slab (aka Nursery School Slab) 
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Donner Pass Road Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.31672, -120.32623 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Jan 5, 2016
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Easy fun line between School Rock and Grouse Slab ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

These crags are all along Donner Pass Road near Donner Pass itself, in the Old Highway 40 section of John Jackson's North Tahoe guidebook.

Getting There 

Drive on Interstate 80 from outside the Donner area.

From the west, take exit 174 at Soda Springs, and follow Donner Pass Road just past the ski areas where large rocks appear on both sides of the road.

From the east, take exit 184 just past Truckee for Donner Pass Road. Drive past the lake, and up to your destination.

Where to park:

For crags at the top of Donner Pass Road, or along the Pacific Crest Trail, your best bet park off the pavement on the shoulders of dirt service roads behind Sugar Bowl Academy, and walk down from there. In season you'll see PCT through hikers passing through. Occasionally you'll be able to park right at School Rock, too, but these convenient spots fill up first.

Park at the major paved parking area on the downhill side of Rainbow Bridge for this area.

The next major parking area with a port-a-potty faces the snowshed, for this wall and its neighbors.

There are pullouts on both sides of the road downhill from the Snowshed parking area for the Black Wall and nearby areas.

Downhill from snowshed, a pullout on the uphill side of the road is next to the Peanut Gallery.

The next pullout on the same side of the road is for the Road Cut.

Park on a pullout downhill from the Black Wall parking for this boulder.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

245 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',108],['2 Stars',79],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',21],['5.7',8],['5.8',27],['5.9',28],['5.10',71],['5.11',59],['5.12',19],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Donner Pass Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Donner Pass Road:
Insidious Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Grouse Slab
Composure   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Snowshed Wall
Rated X   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Black Wall
Telegraph Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Snowshed Wall
Jellyroll Arch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Grouse Slab
One Hand Clapping   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Black Wall
Black September   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Black Wall
Touch and Go   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Black Wall
Nova Express   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Snowshed Wall
Bottomless Topless   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Snowshed Wall
Firecracker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Wall
Farewell to Arms   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Snowshed Wall
Molar Concentration   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Snowshed Wall
Jam Session   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Snowshed Wall
Karl's Gym   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Snowshed Wall
Little Feat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Snowshed Wall
Aerial   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Snowshed Wall
Peter Principle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Snowshed Wall
Disciples Of the New Wave   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Snowshed Wall
Monkey Paws   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Snowshed Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Donner Pass Road

Featured Route For Donner Pass Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Elizabeth Scott pulling the crux

Bypass 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall
An unsung classic for Donner Summit....climb through blocky sections to a nice hand crack. Take a rest, plug a few pieces, and gun the airy roof. Finish up crack to right with new anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Donner Pass Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad on the slash.  A good view of the entire clim...
Brad on the slash. A good view of the entire clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on pitch one approaching the 5.8 steep hand j...
Paul on pitch one approaching the 5.8 steep hand j...
Rock Climbing Photo: top out of school rock
top out of school rock

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