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Donkey Dong 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 6,600
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002  with updates from Lukas Wiborg

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BETA PHOTO: Donkey dong route and bolts, red is the 12a variat...

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Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge. If you want to toprope this climb bring longish slings for the anchor.

Unfortunately there are no rap rings on the anchor but you can walk along the top of the ridge and rap from another point.

Photos of Donkey Dong Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Caunt TRing "Donkey Dong" in 1990
David Caunt TRing "Donkey Dong" in 1990
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse making his way up Donkey Dong
Jesse making his way up Donkey Dong
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan sending Donkey Dong
Dan sending Donkey Dong
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is overhanging.
The route is overhanging.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Donkey Dong Arete, now minus the Dong.
BETA PHOTO: The Donkey Dong Arete, now minus the Dong.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Do...
Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Do...
Rock Climbing Photo: Around the corner, which comprises most of the cli...
BETA PHOTO: Around the corner, which comprises most of the cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: beta photo
BETA PHOTO: beta photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last move of Donkey Dong.  Perhaps my greatest...
The last move of Donkey Dong. Perhaps my greatest...

Comments on Donkey Dong Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2016
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 9, 2002

If you plan on doing the 12a finish, i would suggest clearing the moss first, because right now its really mossy.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2002

I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it!
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

I couldn't pull it, but it looks cool!
By b.gagnon
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Since the dong fell, it goes much easier now.
By Tommy L-D
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Checked it out yesterday, the Dong is indeed gone. Gives me a little peace of mind not having to pull/avoid pulling on that thing.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 14, 2010

I can't believe the dong is gone! This climb was one of my first 11 sends, I was pretty psyched on it. I guess we all knew it was only a matter of time since you could see daylight in that fissure between the dong and the wall. It should be renamed simply Donkey now.
By KyleAnderson
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 6, 2010

i would like to call it dong-less donkey
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 5, 2010

Dong-less Donkey is pretty good. Or maybe Donkey Vah-jay-jay?
By Cody Hanson
Apr 19, 2013

So how hard is this thing now, post-breakage?
By JJ Foley
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 1, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think this route is 11d or 12-

Once you have a couple burns, figure the out beta for clipping and the rests, and get comfortable on it, it doesn't feel like 12a. Onsight could be 12a for sure.

Even the final move to the jug which seemed huge the first time i tried it isnt too bad once you get it dialed in.

11d IMHO.

Great route.
By David Cook
May 30, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome and cool route! But, compared to other castle rock climbs that i have done, definitely not 12a or 11d. There is no move harder than v3, and it is rather short for a sport climb. Compared to the other 5.11s and 5.12s (Krokus, Jailbird), this route is far easier. But, none the less, climb this route! It climbs super well and decide the grade for your self
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Feb 29, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

.10c to a V3 dyno.
By Julian Bobilev
May 1, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Not sure how the right variation climbed before the dong fell off, but it's definitely no harder than 5.11b now - I could even see 5.11a. Haven't tried the left finish yet. Top 5 Castle Rock route for sure.

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