|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Craig Luebben and Jimmie Dunn|
|Submitted By:||Shanti on Jun 5, 2010|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Done Lubin'||Add Comment|
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By Ray Lovestead
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whoa, this is a big girl indeed.
Very important gear beta for the second pitch. Save your blue big bros for the 'top'. VG9s do not work for the 'last' 20 feet or so. If you fell, you'd fall onto tipped out VG9s and big bros...
Also, I say 'top' because as you crest what looks like the end, you realize that you have a lot longer to go. You have to go deep in and can place some 5s, 6s, and then build an anchor higher up. Second pitch is >100 feet. Bring two ropes or a 60m.
This thing needs anchors where it crests so people can safely being their second up and/or rap.