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Don Quixote 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson – 1989
Page Views: 4,790
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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Pat Heddins onsights the D


This mega-classic starts right of a small bush, goes up the face to a high first bolt and then heads left to the right facing corner. Climb the corner, pull the roof, and head up and right to the anchors on the ledge. The crux is near the roof.


At the obvious right-facing dihedral with the roof.


Bolts with anchors.

Photos of Don Quixote Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James Aikman reaching the crux
BETA PHOTO: James Aikman reaching the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Small person beta right around the cruxy part. My ...
BETA PHOTO: Small person beta right around the cruxy part. My ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the skirt
Looking up the skirt
Rock Climbing Photo: Some real thank god hand holds up there!
Some real thank god hand holds up there!
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Quixote
BETA PHOTO: Don Quixote

Comments on Don Quixote Add Comment
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Amazing route but some of the bolts are pretty rusty.
By David Kozak
Mar 18, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This and El Bolota are perhaps the finest routes in Virgin Canyon.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 14, 2011

I really liked this route, it is a trad feeling sport route, if that makes any sense. I should have onsighted it. Instead, I didn't. Getting suckered into the jugs over the arete will screw you. It was one of the finer routes I did in EPC. See spot run.
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jan 15, 2011

Oh Zeke, the jugs on the arete is exactly where you wanna be, I thought.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2011

I thought so too, Hank, the trouble being if you go too far up the jugs (well-chalked, btw), you have a much harder transition back into the dihedral before the roof. Then again, I didn't onsight the rig.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

AWH Sum! Great corner climb with some gnarly stemming. Its tempting to pull onto the arete but force yourself to climb up the blank corner because it is so worth it. Well Bolted and beautiful climbing! Enjoy pulling the roof on hero holds after blank foot work most of the way up. A Classic in my book!!
By John Hovell
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 6, 2017

I had the opposite problem of Zeke. I thought the jugs over the roof were part of the next route and "off limits" (so many EPC routes are squeeze jobs) and so also failed to onsight the rig. :( I think you definitely need to use them somewhat but just maybe don't get suckered into them too far? I could see that making the transition near the crux hard as well.

Good news is bolts are shiny and new (as as the routes in the surrounding area (El Balota, Mexico in Flames, etc) so go get on it! (if there's not a line...)
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very cool route even though it wasn't inspiring watching people climb it. You can see people wander so much, pull over left of the arete to rediculous clipping stances. Imo, jugs left hand with a foot in the corner, stemming works well here, it is not as slippery as everyone makes it seem. Very cool crux near the top but, much easier than .11d.

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