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Earwax Wall
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Antidote S 
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 
Domestic Violence T 
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Domestic Violence 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2013

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Jon Nelson on Domestic Violence. Early 1980s. Phot...

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Description 

The second free route to be put up on Earwax Wall.

Follows a crack up the face, then goes over roof at right-facing corner, and then follows the crack up and right (crux). Lots of face holds going up to the roof, the crack often just serving as a place for pro. A slight reach at the roof to a sinker hand jam, and then the crack thins out. The hardest part is above the roof.

If the part below the roof is wet, you can climb into the route from the Black Flag route just to the right, joining Domestic at the roof.

Location 

Left side of Earwax Wall. Starts on top of left edge of big block resting against the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 2". Had three fixed pieces. The pins above the roof may be gone, but small cams should work.


Photos of Domestic Violence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Domestic Violence from below.The route fol...
BETA PHOTO: View of Domestic Violence from below.The route fol...

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By Ben Gilkison
Mar 9, 2014

This is route has been scrubbed by Jon Nelson. March 8th, 2014.

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