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Domestic Principles 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Doug Klewin, Gordon Briody 1988
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Oct 7, 2016

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Description 

An athletic layback, then get your pro (sling recommended on the flake). There is a good hold to help you mantle the flake. Now some strenuous face climbing leads to a fine slab. Intermediate anchor at the ledge. Recommend belaying here, the upper slab is super techy and a bit harder than what lies below. This is a really fun and varied route!

Location 

From the approach trail, move up and right to an obvious right facing flake. This is the start.

Protection 

All bolted, but I recommend slinging the top of the flake when you get there. I wouldn't trust the rusted Leeper bolt by itself. All the rest of the bolts look fine. A dozen draws plus 3 or 4 slings if doing it as one pitch. I recommend doing it in 2 pitches because the rope drag on the upper slab would be quite heinous, and believe me, you don't want that any of that here!


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