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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 7/00
Page Views: 4,530
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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Mélanie at the anchor of Dolt and Eric getting to...



Much like Jolt (5.10b) but on the other side of the fin.... Still an awesome route but not quite as perfect as its neighbor to the left.... The last time I did it there were still a few loose rocks on it, but I think that the traffic the route has seen recently has cleared that up.... Amazing exposure for a route of its grade....

Start up the line of bolts beneath the huge flake/fin above.... Fun climbing leads to exciting airy moves on the edge of the fin....

A must do route only upstaged by Jolt....


to the right of Jolt start up the line of bolts almost directly under the fin...


14 bolts to anchor

Warning! Do not hang out on the flat spot underneath this route and Jolt. You are in the death zone! The whole fin is exfoliating and rotting and dropping pieces, sometimes big pieces that can easily turn you and your dog into tomato paste. Warn others and wear a helmet while belaying. Wait your turn well off to the side. Seriously!

Photos of Dolt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Final bolts on Dolt
Final bolts on Dolt
Rock Climbing Photo: The top half of Dolt
BETA PHOTO: The top half of Dolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Dolt
BETA PHOTO: Start of Dolt

Comments on Dolt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 23, 2017
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

My friends and I thought that this climb and the one to the left of it (jolt) were the most fun climbs of our weekend at Rumney. A bunch of us led both climbs and everyone thought they were of equal difficulty, or actually thought that this climb is really a 5.10 and jolt is more of an exposed 5.9
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jan 15, 2010

What's the deal with the sub three stars on this one? It is long, exposed, sustained in the last half, and just generally fun as hell!
By skiingclimber
Mar 8, 2010

because jolt is just that much better
By Jeremy Corson
From: Northwood, New Hampshire
May 23, 2010

On 05/22/2010 a rock was knocked from Jolt/Dolt area injuring a climber that was belaying below. I have no idea if this changed the route at all but thought I'd let everyone know to be vigilant in this area. The climber that got injured was named Todd. We got him to the ambulance ok but I have no updates after that. If anyone know how he turned out let me know!
By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Rockfall will always be a problem in this area. A helmit for the belayer is a good idea. 10a seems fair to me. Long runners to reduce drag, like most long Rumny routes.
By S. Neoh
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

IMO, technically harder than Jolt. Three distinct cruxes, each very well protected and with a good rest just prior. Exposure is not as spectacular as Jolt but comes close. To keep rope drag manageable through 14 clips, use a shoulder-length sling at fourth bolt and many of your longer draws.
Three stars not for exposure or movement but for three varied cruxes which will make you think and maybe even grunt a little. :)
By M Sprague
From: New England
Dec 3, 2011

For the onsite, I think Jolt has a little more dramatic line, but after repeating the two routes many times I enjoy the moves of Dolt even more than that route. They are both great. As others have pointed out, do be very careful about rockfall. The rock is such that stuff will continuously loosen up. People tend to congregate right underneath these routes, which is not such a good idea.
By V menon
From: new york
Jul 9, 2012

amazing route at its grade. a bit more technically challenging than Jolt IMHO and a bit of a different climbing style compared to Jolt. Right up at the top, by the last 2 bolts, two good left side hand holds are a bit shaky now (X), ended up moving far left to finish. Belayers wear a helmet.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Well worth bringing a couple long slings to reduce drag. Key bolt is the one on the first steep section at about mid-height, but there are a couple others that could be extended as well.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 14, 2013

Lee - " The last time I did it there were still a few loose rocks on it, but I think that the traffic the route has seen recently has cleared that up...."

Except for the top of Jolt that has now fallen off including the anchors, lol.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 15, 2013

hahaha nice mark.... safe to say i was off on that point...
By ward smith
Apr 6, 2015

We checked this out while replacing the top of Jolt. It appears to be completely unchanged. I would wear a helmet at first and be careful just to make sure!
By Marc B
Oct 16, 2016

I climbed Dolt and Jolt today, both were great. The only rockfall potential I saw was some loose dinner plate sized flakes. Be careful and don't hang out under the routes. These should probably get removed when it's safe.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Jun 17, 2017

Perhaps "DO NOT CLIMB DOLT. DUE TO ROCKFALL IT IS UNSAFE AND/OR NON EXISTENT." can be removed from the description?

I saw lots of loose rock on this today but it certainly wasn't a non-existent climb. Be safe out there people.
By S. Neoh
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I want to echo the comment about creaky and loose holds on this route. It is ironic that today this route has more suspect holds (hand and foot) than its neighbor, Jolt. Form the fourth bolt from the top to the anchors, there are 2 or 3 creaky hand holds which you can easily skip and 2 highly suspect foot holds. I think these might break off soon. I chose not to use either foot hold and after a long while, I finally found smaller but more solid feet to climb the now crux at around the third bolt from the top, at 5.10 grade.
Wish I had a mallet and the cliff cordoned off today so I could remove the suspect footholds.

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