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Dolce vita 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
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Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Zach Alberts on Nov 28, 2012

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Description 

Über popular. Big lock-offs on monos and other small fingery pockets are the name of the game here. Climb through a small bulge at 20ft, this quickly leads to the fingery and technical crux. Power through this short and stout crux and then make a few more difficult moves to the left and through a small overlap to easier climbing and the anchor. Originally rated 13d, this route is now the benchmark ceuse 13c. It's possible that a couple of the pockets were 'enhanced' on this one, but i can't say for sure...

Location 

towards the left side of the sector. the name is written at its base.

Protection 

bolts to a fixed anchor


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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Outstanding route. Some relatively easy climbing leads to a great rest right of the third bolt. From here the route turns up and resistant crimping leads to a punchy back-to-back lock off crux. Step out left above here for a decent rest before a delicate edging crux leads you right up to the chains. Unlike the description above, there are no monos on this route, and the upper bit just a little below the chains is where most people take flight on red point.

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