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Doing The Dew 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 14'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 470
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Aug 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and gene...

Description 

Start standing with both hands matched on a really high edge at around 8 feet or so. Shorter folks will have to stack some pads to reach the starting holds.

Pull off the ground and work up the faint dihedral/corner using some right trending rails. After establishing on the face, make some very tenuous moves to gain the lip high off the deck and holds that are not quite as good as you were hoping they'd be.

Technical and exciting climbing for the grade.

Location 

This is located about 25 feet to the left of 'The Hug', on the same boulder. It is also just uphill from 'Up In Smoke'.

Protection 

Multiple pads and perhaps a spotter or two are recommended.


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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Dec 20, 2015

The sit start for this is a project. Mike Foley managed to do part of the sit today, on some pretty small crimps further down the arete from the start of this problem. You'd still be pretty much standing at these crimps. He said it felt about v8 from where he did it, however the full sit start is likely much harder and is still a project. There's another project on the other arete on the left side of this overhang that's a one move wonder around v12.

He and his friends also did some thing to the left of Up In Smoke (if you're looking at The Hug, turn around and it's the face right in front of you). No one actually topped it out all the way though, since it was too dirty. They start on the lip, and then grab a couple decent crimps and mantle up until they good grab another crimp, then stand up on the slab. They just jumped onto the rock to the left to get down. Idk if it's been done before but it looked alright and pretty hard.
By Graham O.
Jul 20, 2016

Rad line! Committing and varied with unique holds and cool movement. One of the best of the grade at P-way and definitely worth doing when at Devils Den.

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