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Lac Blanc - Left End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azhrei Dragon Prince S 
Chauve-souris T 
Chauve-souris 2 T 
Doigt dans l'nez T 
Julep S 
Lézard S 
Oreille Cassée (projet) S 
Une période S 
Veuve noire T 

Doigt dans l'nez 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Sep 2, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: 6. Julep (5.11b) Une classique du site! Il faut b...

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Description 

Would be a lot better if it got traffic and cleaned up a bit. This is the striking tips crack seen on the right side of the overhanging buttress on the right-side of the Left End.

Traverse in from the right on the ledge system until you reach the stance below the bolt. Gain the bolt, fire a hard move and then climb up and left into the slabby right-facing corner to a stance at the base of the tips crack. Climb the crack to a small ledge that bisects the cliff. Continue up your choice of easier cracks to a fixed anchor on the left side of the block.

Location 

About 30 feet uphill and right of Chauve-souris just before the trail levels out on the way to the main wall.

Protection 

1 bolt
Standard rack to 1.5", small wires/cams.


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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Sep 2, 2013

I've seen this described as being 11a. I thought it was significantly harder than 11a. I ended up having to aid the crack and I still couldn't get it on top-rope. You can bail right into the right-facing corner 5' to the right (significantly easier) if you need to bail and aren't able to french free it. If this was cleaned up it might be easier, but in it's current state I don't think it is reasonable to call it 11a. I'd love for someone to tell me I'm just not good at this size crack and that it's 11a though...

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