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(Annoyed Grunt) 5.7
First pitch of "Excellent Smithers", 5.10a. A good lead if you're looking for some 5.7 hands to break into. I didn't think the crack was painful at all (no annoyed grunts), but then again my Ocun crack gloves + TC Pros are practically cheating. Crux is where it's steep and a little wide, but knobs make for plenty of options. After the crack ends, there are some fun face moves and a couple little pieces to place before the top. Set up TR for "D'oh", "Donuts", and "Beernuts" (Or even "Beer" with a directional).
Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "D'oh!" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), is the most obvious, as a knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. You can spot the two bolts on "Beer" around 50-60' up, and you can see the anchor for "D'oh!" to the right of that.
Standard rack, with a couple in the bigger range (C4 #2-3). A #4 isn't necessary, but I think I stuck mine in there somewhere. Anchor has rapp rings directly into hangers. As I pulled rope through to rapp, the rope unlocked my biner gate for my PAS! Fun times.