|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 45'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||eDixon Dixon on Aug 10, 2008|
|Comments on Dogs of Doom||Add Comment|
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By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
|The first bolt of "Double Exposure Direct" can now be clipped 2/3rds of the way up this route.|
By George Bracksieck
4 days ago
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I think DoD is 5.10 and typical example of the sandbag ratings that have been perpetuated for many of the older "moderate" routes around Durango. I think that most of the Durango .10s and .11s that I've been able to do aren't sandbags and are generally rated consistently with climbs in other areas.
About ten years ago, neither Clark Corey, who is relatively tall, nor I could get off the ground on DoD. At the time, Clark was cruising many of the .10s at East A and Cascade.
I have since rigged a toprope from the Yellow Pages anchor, using directionals and an old rope that I didn't mind shredding. I found that DoD's undercut start was 5.10, although I am barely 5'8".