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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Dogpatch T 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 
Lemon Line T 
Lime Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Dogpatch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: G. Miller, S. Levin, 2007
Season: faces SW
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Tony B on May 30, 2016

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  • Description 

    This has reasonably good climbing in an unlikely position. It is worth doing if you like doing everything.

    Climb up under the overhang, and then work right under it so as to avoid any actual steep climbing. Head up to the trees on the Vertigo ledge to belay.

    Location 

    A few feet right of the metal ladder at the base of Schizophrenia, step right and to an inset below an overhang. The right side is bad and flaky, the left side has what looks to be an overhanging handcrack, but feet appear as you move up and left under it to keep it 5.7. Climb up that and then up to belay at the tree as for Schizophrenia.

    Protection 

    A light set of cams to 3" and a few slings.


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