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Routes in The Wedge
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Balcony Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dogleg Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Exit 99 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mutt and Jeff, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southeast Chimneys T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spellcaster T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Tim T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Kanzler |
| Page Views: | 2,584 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | szheng on Jul 18, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road closed December 2 to May 15
Details
The Humbug Spires are part of the Humbug Spires Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The road is closed to motorized vehicles from December 2 to May 15. The use of power drills is prohibited.
Description
The amazing crack that doglegs rightward, to the left of The Mutt and Jeff.
Begin on an easy, low angle twin crack section to the first crux, make a bolt-protected 5.10 slab move and continue upward toward the steep corner, pull around the roof and embark on the sweet, steepening finger crack (11a).
Nut and bolt anchor before the crack doglegs rightward (P2). Possible to link but rope drag could be tricky. You can also rappel from the first anchor with a 70m rope.
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