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Dogleg Crack T 
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Dogleg Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: szheng on Jul 18, 2017

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the amazing, clean crack

Description 

The amazing crack that doglegs rightward, to the left of The Mutt and Jeff.

Begin on an easy, low angle twin crack section to the first crux, a 5.10 PG13 slab problem. Made a bit spicier by the fact that the bolt hanger is missing (!), but there's good gear at your feet and you can hang a nut on the bolt if you like. Continue upward toward the steep corner, pull around the roof and embark on the sweet, steepening finger crack (11a).

Nut and bolt anchor before the crack doglegs rightward (P2). Possible to link but rope drag could be tricky. You can also rappel from the first anchor with a 70m rope.

Protection 

Standard rack, extra finger size pieces


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