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Angering The Angered T 
Buenaventura , The T 
Coalpit Connection T 
Direct North Face T 
DoggyStyle T 
House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
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DoggyStyle 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer 05'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,984
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Pitch 4, great clean slabbing

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start from the same area as Stifflers Mom.

    P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+

    P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+

    P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10

    P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8

    It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.

    the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.

    It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.

    Protection 

    Rack: QD's a standard rack up to #2 camalot (two #2's are nice). A 60m rope will let you rap route with 1 rope.



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    By climbergirlinLCC
    Jun 4, 2006

    Holy Shnikeys Batman! What a route! Tried not to fall over all the lips of roofs/edges. Super fun, bring 2 #2 camalots for the 3rd.
    By Furguson
    Aug 10, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Contrived link-up of dirt ledges via moss covered exfoliating slab with 15 ft of good crack climbing on the third pitch. May clean up sometime, but not worth 2 stars…
    By tenesmus
    May 28, 2007

    I thought that arete was cool, the hand crack traverse was cool, and the last 5.8 pitch would be a really great lead for a 5.8 or 9 slab climber - it was really enjoyable.
    By zoso
    Sep 14, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    3rd pitch seemed less than 5.10 to me and I'm not very svelte.

    Great route, thanks.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 7, 2011

    Hands-down the worst route on the buttress. Choss galore.
    By bus driver
    Jul 21, 2011

    mmm. . . choss
    By Daniel Winder
    Jun 5, 2012
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The first pitch traverses left more than is indicated in the topo. A fall would likely drop you over the edge of a razor sharp arete. Spooky, maybe consider double ropes. The climbing is slightly contrived but the third pitch roof is great. At the top of the route make an easy left traverse to the base of the money pitch on Stifflers.

    Edit: Ok, "razor sharp" is a bit dramatic, but it's still sharp enough to wreak havoc on the cord, IMO
    By zoso
    Jun 5, 2012
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    "Razor sharp" is a pretty good exageration.

    Did this again today and ya, it was a tad dirty here and there, but certainly not chossy. Adds to the adventure imo.

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