Dogging the Little Pig
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BETA PHOTO: Photo taken from the top of the needle,pitch 1 is ...
P1 50m 5.5
Rock quality is good, belay at large tree below slab and corner system.
P2 40m 5.8+ (crux) Trend up to right on low angle rock, then head up a steep corner climbing the face to the left. Clip the fixed pin and alien. Climb easier rock to the belay. Belay at tree 30 feet above and to the right of the corner next to big flake. Rock quality is good but the corner needs a little cleaning. A possible easier way up exists to the left of the corner up a less than vertical shrub filled corner system, although we did not attempt it.
P3 50m 5.8+
Step out right of the of the tree lie back large flake to face, clip fixed pin (5.8+), climb easier terrain belay at large tree and ledge system. Rock quality is good to fair.
P4. 50m 5.6
Climb to the top of the wall on easy terrain avoiding lose blocks. If you are at the correct tree on top of pitch 3 this pitch will more or less go straight up the wall.
Hike about 12 minutes down the canyon on the faint climbers trail, as the wall starts to get big (400ft or ) trend left. See photo for start of route.
Gear: full set up to 2.0
Bring many slings to avoid rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: Start of Dogging the Little Pig.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
FYI, there is no longer a fixed alien, and the second fixed pin (on 3rd pitch) popped under less than body weight leading to a long fall and two badly sprained ankles. The 0.3 C4 that caught me is still there above the flake for anyone motivated enough to retrieve it.