|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Ted Doughty & James Barnett|
|Season:||Winter. Spring, Fall|
|Submitted By:||Dave Daly on Feb 27, 2012|
|Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Dog Leg Crack||Add Comment|
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From: San Diego, Ca
Dec 11, 2014
Is there anyone out there with ANY beta on this climb at all?
I've wanted to try it for a while, but a vague description of an extended off-with at the top is disconcerting.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Apr 15, 2016
I'm a little confused by your comment. The information listed above is pretty much straight forward. I'm not quite sure what you're looking for exactly. If you're worried about the off-width near the finish, its not that hard....I'd say 5.7/5.8 with a few face holds on the outside to make progress easier. I did use a #5 and #6 Camelot. Be sure to use longer slings once you get into the initial start to the off-width so you're not dealing with rope drag from the change in direction. The crux is during the traverse (.10a), fair to poor feet and the crack is part of a sloping narrow ledge that makes it awkward for being confident with hand position since it slopes to down and left while you are moving up and right. Comprende? The crack took a #1, .75 and a green and yellow Alien (best to my memory). I could make you a ham sandwich if you ask nicely. :)