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Dog Dreamin' 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Nicole Meyer, Thomas Gilmore April 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Thomas Gilmore on Aug 31, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Left crack system is Dog Dreamin' right crack syst...

Description 

To find the route, look for an obvious dihedral above some broken ledges 10 feet left of the starting ramp for Treason at the Watchtower.

Pitch 1: Climb the broken ledges to the base of the dihedral.

Pitch 2: (The money pitch) Climb the dihedral (5.10-). Take this pitch to the second large ledge with a giant tan boulder on it. Pitch 1 and 2 could be combined. From the first large ledge you can bail left (passing a sick looking presumably unclimbed overhanging wide crack) and scramble down a gully back to your pack or take on the wild, adventurous 3rd pitch.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ climb up the large tan boulder and wonder to yourself how you are going to traverse along the horizontal crack feature in front of you. Commit to some of the most improbable moves at the grade that you will do on a multipitch in the Red to arrive at the arete feature, then pull up onto the right side of the slab; delicately climb the slab to the top taking advantage of whatever gear you can find (tricams may be useful but we didn't have any). Top out to one of the best views in the Red

Decent: 2 rappels off some trees climbers left back to your packs.

Location 

10 feet left of "Treason at the Watchtower", GPS: N37.84067° W83.63817°

Protection 

Standard RRG double rack. Tricams or offset cams may be helpful on the last pitch


Photos of Dog Dreamin' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First Pitch
BETA PHOTO: First Pitch

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