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Dog Biscuit 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond - TR '88, Mark Sprague - lead '98
Page Views: 1,757
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Figuring out the crux sequence... phot by Liam Gr...


Continuing with the tradition of canine-inspired route names, Dog Biscuit is so aptly named because (from as far as I can glean) it is quite a tasty treat for rock aficionados!

This route climbs the left, then the right side of the striking arete/roof via technical and satisfying moves.

Begin on the face directly below the arete with a ramp-like feature to your right. Ascend up, then make a couple exciting moves left beneath a low roof to a mantle shelf. Next, climb up the orange face, trending right until you are on good, but not great, holds beneath the right side of the roof. Look right around the corner once you are below the roof and clip a bolt. Make an exciting step around right onto the upper face and climb to the top. You'll encounter the crux right before the chains. Note to climber: Not all paths between two points are straight, especially those connecting the final bolt to the anchor!!


The unmistakable arete/roof at the lowest point on the cliff. Can be seen when approaching from the climbers trail.


7 bolts.

Photos of Dog Biscuit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dog Biscuit generally follows the arete on the lef...
Dog Biscuit generally follows the arete on the lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the corner on Dog Biscuit.  Photo by Liam ...
Turning the corner on Dog Biscuit. Photo by Liam ...

Comments on Dog Biscuit Add Comment
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By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
May 22, 2007

Ward Smith's guide book list the FA as follows: tr- Ted Hammond, 5/88; lead- Mark Sprague, 11/98.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 2, 2010

Fun, varying climbing up four faces.
By S. Neoh
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very nice. Seemed stout for the grade until we figured out better Beta, using two unchalked holds, and it does indeed go at 10c. Just wish it is longer!
By RJ Ryan
From: Cambridge, MA
May 12, 2014

This climb is essentially the 5.10 version of "Apocalypse Later" at Apocalypse wall :). Lots of fun.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 27, 2014

I was belaying a friend of mine on this over this past weekend and he accidentally pulled off a large block after topping out a few feet left of the chains. It came crashing down within feet of us at the base. Helmets are cool people!!

In related news, this climb is awesome.
By Franck Vee
Sep 3, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Felt stiff for the grade - but then it's a bit of a beta-intensive one, once you know and don't look so much for holds it probably feels easier.

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