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Bear Necessities T 
Doesn't Remind Me T 
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Doesn't Remind Me 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Bealor, Will Roth, May 23, 2016
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY on May 24, 2016

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Description 

Two very good pitches that traverse a crack out to the arete left of the Yard Sale chimney, then climbs thin face, knobs, and edges up the arete and left wall.
P1 5.10c G: Climb Bear Necessities for 20’ to a right angling crack. Traverse the crack out towards the arete. Execute a tricky mantle (crux, subtle side pull) a few feet before the arete. Climb the arete and thin face to a two bolt anchor. Great position on the arete. 90’
P2 5.10b G: Follow knobs and edges past seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Some of the holds on this pitch look like they came from a “climbing hold factory”. The easiest path is not necessarily a plumb line between the bolts. 70’

Location 

Start on Bear Necessities.
Two rappels from bolted anchors with a single 60M.

Protection 

Gear: A "mixed" line in the Poke-O style. P1 takes cams from blue to black Metolious in the traverse crack, optional grey Aliens between bolts on the arete. P2 takes a black Metolious and a few finger sized cams.


Photos of Doesn't Remind Me Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: on P1 arete
on P1 arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from first belay on FFA
Looking down from first belay on FFA
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 crux mantle
P1 crux mantle
Rock Climbing Photo: Route from the base, gear in horizontal from an ea...
Route from the base, gear in horizontal from an ea...

Comments on Doesn't Remind Me Add Comment
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By Matt D
From: Jay, NY
May 1, 2017

Mark and will - great line!

It looks like there are two variations to the start of this route:

Adirondack rock 2nd print edition says this route (still a project at the time), breaks out of the yardsale chimney on a crack (the line in the book shows this about 1/2 to 2/3 of a pitch up) - consistent with the intro to your route description here "traverse a crack out to the arete left of the Yard Sale chimney, then climbs thin face".

The Adirondack rock New Routes webpage has the route starting with the bear necessities mantle (consistent with your description of P1, "Climb Bear Necessities for 20’ to a right angling crack...")
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 2, 2017

Hey Matt, the info in Adirondack Rock was how the route was originally attempted. It was abandoned, and later completed by Mark & Will, who used a different (and better) start. That chimney is jingus.

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