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ChefMattThaner
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Oct 18, 2013
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Lakewood, co
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 246
So I know that is probably a bit of an overstatement, but it seems like more and more these days the standard rope size is becoming under 10.0. I got my first "skinny" rope, an edelrid 9.6 and it has served me very well(2 years of 2 days a week and showing little sign of wear). Longevity usually seems like the number one argument for larger diameter ropes but is everyone else getting as much mileage out of their sub 10.0 ropes as I am?? Is the extra weight of the larger ropes really worth it? Looking into adding a 70m rope soon and was just wondering if i should stay small.
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Abram Herman
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Oct 18, 2013
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 20
John Wilder wrote: A 70m line over 10mm would be so damn heavy, I'd never take it out of the closet. Yup.
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Ryan Nevius
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Oct 18, 2013
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Perchtoldsdorf, AT
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 1,837
I use a 70m 10.2mm for TR and working stuff. 9.2 otherwise.
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Woodchuck ATC
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Oct 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 3,280
Yes, yes, and yes! 10.2 to 10.5 because I don't need to save 9 oz. for a sportie route with 11gram biners either. I haul TRAD gear, over rough terrain, and believe in a sturdy rope with gusto. I own a 9.8 'skinny' and still don't feel safe falling 20 ft. on sport routes with it. Plus with the skinny rope fad, and 240 dollar overpriced fashionable ropes, I can always get a great deal on a 10.2 rope just about any internet site.
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Walt Barker
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Oct 18, 2013
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Western NC
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 425
Yup, 10.2; Watson Lake Dell's granite is like .25 grit sandpaper
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Adam Stackhouse
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Oct 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 13,970
Mammut Supernova 10.0 for leading and a 100' of 8.something for Woodson toproping!
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MRock
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Oct 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 10
I asked my buddy going to Patagonia if he was getting some crazy skinny future ropes, he said no, just a single fatty (10.2) as it is all cheese grater granite. The only reason I see not to buy a fatty is the weight issue, but id much rather bear that than reach between my legs for a cord whipping in the wind on that proud onsight. If I was climbing over hanging hard sport stuff (I'm not) where the main contact point is the draws themselves, I'd be all over a 9.small. Then again, think about what the argument is, almost a centimeter of rope thickness for a hand full of pounds? I take the fatty. But, I also carry breakfast and lunch and too much water and beer to the crag so ymmv. That being said, on my list is a skinny bi pattern 70m :D
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Bob Dobalina
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Oct 18, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 140
I have a 10.5 for aid/wall climbing.
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LawHous
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Oct 18, 2013
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 481
Thick ropes have a purpose, i.e. heavy use TRing, sharp edges climbing. I think that rope technology is much more advanced these days though so thinner ropes are safer and more acceptable to use(especially on bigger routes).
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Tom Powell
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Oct 18, 2013
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Ogden, Utah
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 60
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Leo Paik
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Oct 19, 2013
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Westminster, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 22,800
10mm + ropes are nice for exploring, doing new routes, taking beginner friends and kids along for climbing days, and generally lasting longer. If you're rich or worried about differences in letter grades, you can buy skinny ropes more frequently. Most of the folks I climb with are using 10mm + ropes.
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Ming
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Oct 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 1,955
I just sent a 30 meter 5.11c route on a 10.2 last Saturday. It definitely felt heavy near the top with all that rope drag.
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Locker
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Oct 19, 2013
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Yucca Valley, CA
· Joined Oct 2002
· Points: 2,349
I just bought an 11mm rope.
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Jon Zucco
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Oct 19, 2013
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Denver, CO
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 245
I use my 10.3 every day. It works great as a dog leash. The 9.4 is much better for sport climbing though. *edits in italics
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Ed Wright
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Oct 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 285
For what I do I prefer 10+. When you're hanging off a tiny hook a thousand feet off the deck even an 11 seems skinny.
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Animal Chin
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Oct 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 0
10.2 for cragging it - sport or trad. 9.4-9.8 alpine. Guess I don't climb hard enough that the weight diff. is going to be what shuts me down. 10.2 ropes are about half the cost of the skinny deals most times.
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Jeffrey Arthur
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Oct 19, 2013
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Westminster, CO
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 290
Weight is only one factor and for me that factor is a tiny one. Since "tradsters" love to assume us "sport wankers" can't be bothered to carry a few extra pounds, or ounces this is total bull$hit. Most sport crags are typically a convenient 15 min approach so carrying in 2 extra pounds is not a problem. The biggest difference for me is when climbing at my limit a smaller diameter rope is much easier to handle vs a fatter one when I'm making a desperate clip. They also feed much easier through a device & don't get hung up in a Gri-Gri 2 which most of my partners use. So for me if I have a 1% chance of finally sending my project that has crappy clip stances my skinny ropes have made the difference between success and failure. The biggest drawback I see with ropes getting down to 9.2 mm with a dry treatment is I definitely won't trust just anyone to use it. I end up having a conversation beforehand about where I might fall. When I get to those sections I'll either put the fall out of my mind & send, or take. Therefore the negative becomes a mental battle with trusting my belayer to catch me with that skinny, dry treated, slick ass rope.
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Rob D
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Oct 19, 2013
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Queens, NY
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 30
The weight saving thing has always been weird to me, because while I understand weight is important, when you look into the actual weight difference, it's super super small. for instance: the Beal Diablo UniCore 10.2mm is a cheapo low end rope, and weighs 64 grams per meter. the EDELWEISS Energy ARC Bi-Pattern 9.5mm is a higher end, skinny rope, and weighs 58 grams per meter. That means the total weight difference between these two ropes (given both are 60m) is ~.8 lbs. Now assuming you are in top physical shape, and pushing your letter grades, with ultralight biners and a dead bird harness, I completely get shaving off that 4/5 of a pound. But for the rest of us, losing a pound off of your total rope weight is probably negligible (especially given the fact that I personally am carrying more than .8lbs of extra weight on my belly)
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Tyrel Fuller
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Oct 19, 2013
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Denver, CO
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 130
Why do fat traddies insist on fat ropes? How often do fat traddies fall? My 2 cents... slim down the rack and the back fat.
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FrankPS
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Oct 19, 2013
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Tyrel Fuller wrote:Why do fat traddies insist on fat ropes? How often do fat traddies fall? My 2 cents... slim down the rack and the back fat. Let the personal attacks and name-calling begin.
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Tyrel Fuller
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Oct 19, 2013
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Denver, CO
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 130
Don't get me wrong. I'm a fat traddie too.
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