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Dod's Jam P1 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dod, Martin, Levin '61
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jul 16, 2017

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start next to the third tunnel and move up possibly dirty rock with some awkward stemming, searching movement. Make for the series of hand cracks up and left. Climb up to and past a series of small ledges until you can sink your hands into some quality fissures. This section involves a healthy bit of exposure, fun straight-in jamming, with regular jugs and nearby cracks for alternate hand and gear placements. Clip a couple ancient pitons for kicks. You will eventually merge with Free For All at a small ledge after a semi-crux, then make a final strenuous move to another ledge where you will have a wonderful opportunity to get intimate with your partner. Rap with a single 70m to the ground, or two ropes, or do a second rap from the mid-anchor of Free For Some without a stance (not recommended).

Location 

Left side of the South Face, count the tunnels, you want the third one

Protection 

Gear to 4", doubles from 2-4 are nice but can be substituted for small gear and/or fixed pitons


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