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Doctor Not Recommended TR 
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Doctor Not Recommended 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 24, 2016

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Doctor Not Recommended.

Description 

This is a toprope line just to the left of Jim's Myrtle Spurge that sort of calls out to be climbed to those who hear such things. It's probably not worth bolting, but if you are looking for additional lines and don't mind risking your rope if you should pitch off (or don't intend to fall), you might find this a micro-adventure.

After leading up Jim's Myrtle Spurge or Mark Hamill's Face, you can clip the left anchor bolts with a longer sling. Start perhaps 10 feet left of Jim's Myrtle Spurge aiming for a shallow dihedral. Beware of loose/fractured holds. Gaining the dihedral makes for a test of trusting these iffy holds. There's an interesting squeeze-a-downward-pointing-hold bit to move right around the arete.

Location 

This ascends a shallow dihedral to the left of Jim's Myrtle Spurge.

Protection 

A longer sling or two for the left (non-quicklinked) anchors. You might consider one of those loose, hose-like rope protectors to protect your rope...or better, don't fall. Yeah, don't fall...it's doctor not recommended.


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