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Doctor Limit 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 2,450
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Send go by Carter


Climb to a small ledge clipping the first two bolts in route. Make pinchy delicate moves to continue upward. After clipping the third bolt, the climbing eases up a bit and cruise to the top. The crux is finding the hidden ledge towards the top -- this will foil many an onsight suitor.

  • RCM&W #110, p. 135.


Doctor Limit is immediately right of Two Tone Zephyr, and to the left of Frequent Flatulence.


4 or 5 bolts, to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.

Photos of Doctor Limit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie B after pulling through the crux on Doctor L...
Katie B after pulling through the crux on Doctor L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Darin leading
Darin leading

Comments on Doctor Limit Add Comment
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By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is probably the second best 11 at redwing, after chinese freedom. Good rock, technical climbing the whole way.
By Mike Frost
Jun 29, 2010

Note that there is a climb with no bolt line between Two-tone Zephyr and Doctor Limit called Eel Pocket Route. It will be listed in the guides, but if you're counting bolt lines the route description here is correct. Eel Pocket Route can be top-roped from the Doctor Limit anchors.
By Dakota S.
From: Denver, CO
Nov 12, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

When I climbed it I felt like it was really clean. I understand now that the bottom is a little dirty, probably from the rain. I would still consider this route a classic for the area.

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