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Doc Holliday Wall
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Doc's Holiday 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Brad Singer & Mike Rigney, 1989, FL: Rich Scholes & Mike Rigney, 1990, Direct Start: Pete Paredes, Chuck Scott, Chris Miller & Nathan Mitts, 7/01
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 5,375
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006

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Josh at the finish of Doc's Holiday. One of my fa...


Easy moves past three bolts lead up a featured face to the base of the smooth headwall. Clip the 4th bolt and then head up the steep, smooth face using small but positive crimps that appear just as you need them. After clipping the last bolt head straight up on jugs to finish on a small ledge with anchors.

The bottom portion of this was originally climbed via a loose hand crack to the right; years later a direct start was added which boosted the popularity of this quality route.


Scramble up 20' right of Pistol Pete to reach this area classic which tackles the smooth-looking face up the middle of the formation.


8 bolts, chain anchors

Photos of Doc's Holiday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on Doc's Holiday
Myself on Doc's Holiday
Rock Climbing Photo: Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5....
Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Up on the series of crimps that make this route a ...
Up on the series of crimps that make this route a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Up on the series of crimps that make this route a ...
Up on the series of crimps that make this route a ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Doc's Holiday (5.10c), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Heads up....edges are running out!
Heads up....edges are running out!
Rock Climbing Photo: mid-section of Doc's  Photo by Leslie King
mid-section of Doc's Photo by Leslie King

Comments on Doc's Holiday Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 28, 2016
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This too is a great route. The crimps creak a bit but held my bacon so they were solid enough. As in the description, the crimpy holds show up just as you need them and all the clipping stances are solid.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 30, 2010

I found this to be the most attractive line in the area.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Alas the crimps didn't just show up for me - I had to search for them, and when I found them I had to resist all temptation to immediately reject them in favor of as yet undiscovered better crimps, glad I did that because despite the seemingly woefully inadequate nature of a few of them they actually managed to help my sorry booty to the top without any falls.

Quite an intense route for me.
By Keane Anderson
Aug 6, 2013

This route was excellent. The holds were really tiny for a 10d, but there were a lot of them in useful places. Good mental challenge.
By Phil Esra
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Really fun. Mostly pretty easy--my partner and I, very different bodies/heights/strengths/styles, both found this route easier than Pistol Pete's next door. Weird.
By Will Cornell
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is awesome! perfect crimpy face climb. BTW: does anyone know if this route happens to be named after the character from Steinbeck's "Cannery Row" ? ...just curious.
By Mike Rigney
Oct 7, 2014

Nope, nothing to do with Cannery Row. In reference to Doc Holiday from the OK Corral. Keeping with western theme and all.
By C Miller
From: CA
Oct 8, 2014

Wow, a Mike Rigney sighting!
By Mike Rigney
Oct 17, 2014

Hi Chris. Gearing up for yet another comeback and just surfing around for some inspiration. How are things?
By Aaron covington
From: Pinon hills, ca
May 31, 2015

Awesome route! body movement does it all! get yourself in the right place for the next move and the route is easy if you are good at crimping and pinching!!!
By Olsen Aviles
Apr 18, 2016

This route is every bit of 5.10d... maybe even 11a. Cruise up until the 3rd or 4th bolt and from then on it's very sustained climbing. While the clipping stances on one or two bolts may feel very tentative for someone not accustomed to sustained crimpy climbing (i.e. me) rest assured the holds are all there and the falls are all clean with a competent belayer... even if you blow a clip. I could maybe see someone who excels at crimps finding this easier than Pistol Pete nearby but, just for reference I flashed Pistol Pete and had to hang my way up this route.

Beta Alert Crux is 2nd bolt from top, look for hidden side pull crimp up and left to gain the teasing jug above the bolt. The two finger half pad crimp under the bolt makes the climb harder.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
May 28, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Classic! The very forgettable bottom gives way to awesome exposed edging on smooth rock for 3-4 clips. Nice and delicate, but all of the crimps are there when you need to clip.

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