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Do Rangers Dream of Electric Sheep? 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pokey Armory, Dave Bingham, 1986
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: John Steiger on Nov 8, 2015

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This little gem deserves more love. Bingham's guide (2004 version) shows this as more or less as a straight-line and derides it as "contrived" and taking the "line of most resistance," but we climbed the face linking together incipient cracks and horizontals for pro which made for a great climb -- sowewhat reminiscent of the wandering nature of Beware of Nesting Egos (albeit shorter and the rock is not as good) and neither contrived nor unreasonably protected. Done as described here, this is the best 5.10 on the crag IMO.

Start by scrambling up a low-angle pillar-like formation and leaning across to a thin crack that leads to a horizontal. From here angle right past a bolt (SMC hanger, and it looks like a quarter-inch sleeve bolt, so look for options to back it up) to another thin crack. From there, angle back left to the chains.


Wireds (consider offsets) and cams micro to hand-size; some shoulder length slings. Chain anchors.

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By dave bingham
Jun 13, 2017

Maybe a little contrived - but in a good way. "Line of most resistance" - always the best way!

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