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Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Blake Green September 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Blake Allen Green on Oct 1, 2015

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Finding the crucial second placement.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

You might want to sign a DNR before attempting the onsight of this one! Fun gorge stemming gives way to big moves on positive face holds at a midway transition into a shallow corner system left of Resuscitation. While the route takes ample safe gear, it is small, specific, and missing any placement in the first 40 feet will likely commit the climber to irreversible moves in no fall territory.

Listed as 36. Project (5.12?) in the Watts guide, this route was previously abandoned because "there's reason to believe that a hanging column the size of a couple Coke Machines might fall out someday."

Rather than getting anywhere near the sketchy column, this route breaks right into a shallow corner system and good face holds at about mid height. A new set of anchors has been added to accomodate the position of the new finish.

Location 

Between Resuscitation and White Trash. Break right before the hanging column.

Protection 

Minimum one set each DMM brass offsets and ballnuts #1-#3. Doubles in both would not go unappreciated. A single set of normal wires and C3's gives ample options and covers the most confidence inspiring placements.


Photos of Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This isn't an aid rack!
BETA PHOTO: This isn't an aid rack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Keep it together above good gear for the tricky fi...
Keep it together above good gear for the tricky fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Break right before the corner gets dirty and befor...
Break right before the corner gets dirty and befor...
Rock Climbing Photo: More stemming in the gorge
More stemming in the gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Working out the beta
Working out the beta

Comments on Do Not Resuscitate (DNR) Add Comment
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By Blake Allen Green
Oct 13, 2015

This one's easy enough to set up off of Bold Line, Resuscitation, or possibly even White Trash extension.

Edit: 7/1/16 I toproped this route yesterday, second time actually doing the moves on the pitch. Without the fear of leading it, I was really reminded how good the moves are! This thing is definitely a worthwhile tick among gorge 11s. The fear factor would definitely be pretty minimal as a headpoint; there's definitely harder 5.11 stemming and sketchier gear to be found in the gorge.

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