DNF 5.10 variation
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This "everyman's" variation avoids the run out start and the 5.11 crux of Wide Country
105760527which is the first pitch of The Direct North Face and allows one to climb the rest of the DNF at only 5.10. The middle pitch of X-M
is now the spice crux with this variation.
Climb the Bastille Crack
past the chain anchor of the first pitch. At the top of the chimney flare, traverse right, obvious 5.7, into the final 5.10c section of the first pitch of Wide Country
. Double runners on any pro above the chains on BC
before moving right are helpful to avoid rope drag.
See Steve Levin's description of the DNF for the full route beta.
Standard Eldo rack.