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D.M.Z. 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Stimson
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on May 4, 2012  with updates from Nate Ball

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BETA PHOTO: D.M.Z. goes up the finger crack on the face.

Description 

A fun finger crack with some face moves.

Start at the top of the slab finish of Main Attraction. Scramble over an off-width section to a ledge shortly above. Go up through a section of hands with an obvious rest. Locker jams take you to another rest and optional face moves to the top. Belay far back of the edge with a gear anchor.

Location 

This is an alternate last pitch for Main Attraction. From the top of pitch two on that route, climb up and a bit right to start on top of a big block.

Protection 

2x gear to 1"


Photos of D.M.Z. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch of Main Attraction on the face on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Third pitch of Main Attraction on the face on the ...

Comments on D.M.Z. Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Short but sweet. Standard rack is fine, though I didn't place anything bigger than a #2 camalot. I had to build an anchor quite a ways back on top.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Micro to finger size pro. I placed one #2 Camalot in a hand pod but everything else was small. The crux is the first 20 feet or so of finger crack to the good rest. It gets easier the higher you go after that. The main description on this page says the main crack after the lower section is hands. Not true even if you have small hands. It is all finger size with a couple occasional tight hand pods.

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